terça-feira, 2 de dezembro de 2014

Site resgata glamour das aeromoças com uniformes vintage


O holandês Cliff Muskiet coleciona uniformes de aeromoças e criou um site especial – o Uniform Freaks – que está fazendo sucesso entre fãs desse nicho bastante específico de moda.
Muskiet vive em um pequeno apartamento de dois quartos repletos de caixas de plástico em Amsterdã. Dentro delas estão 1.285 uniformes da aeromoças.
"Sempre estou perto dos uniformes. Se eles não estão por perto, eu me sinto estranho, como se os meus filhos estivessem longe", diz.
Emilio Pucci criou visuais psicodélicos para a americana Braniff International 
Uniforme de 1970-1973 da Continental Airlines tinha saia curta e cores vibrantes

Esse modelo da Pan Am, de 1971 a 1975, vinha nas cores azul e bege

O holandês se recusa a colocar as roupas em um depósito, mesmo correndo o risco de ficar sem espaço em seu apartamento.
"Se eu quiser dar uma olhada nos uniformes, basta ir na outra sala e vê-los. Eu não quero que eles fiquem em um depósito longe de mim."
A paixão do holandês pela moda de aviação começou cedo.
"Quando eu tinha cinco anos, fui de Nova York para Amsterdã, e era um voo noturno, então eu dormi a noite toda. Quando acordei em Amsterdã, me senti decepcionado de não lembrar nada do voo. Desde então, comecei a colecionar tudo que tem relação com aviões."
Sua coleção começou com postais, modelos, itinerários e panfletos com instruções de segurança. Um de seus primeiros empregos na adolescência foi limpar aviões no aeroporto de Amsterdã. Ele costumava recolher tudo que conseguia para sua coleção, mas aos 18 anos resolveu se desfazer de tudo.

Muskiet diz que o uniforme da Northwest Orient (1968-1970) era 'lindo porque era horrível <
Uniforme atual da TAP é um dos poucos modelos modernos que agrada o holandês

Para holandeses, esse modelito de 1975 da KLM é um dos mais clássicos

Então em 1992, cinco anos depois de começar a trabalhar na companhia aérea KLM, Muskiet achou uma nova paixão no mundo da aviação.
"Quando eu estava em Gana, como parte da tripulação de um dos voos, eu pedi ao aeroporto de Acra que me presenteassem com um uniforme de aeromoça, e fui atendido."
Desde então, ele coleciona roupas que vão da era dourada das aeromoças até os dias de hoje. Muskiet acredita que os uniformes ainda refletem o glamour que a profissão tinha no passado.
"Se você olhar para os anos 1950, 1960 e 1970, o uniforme era muito importante – voar era algo especial na época, e quem quisesse ser aeromoça tinha que ser uma Miss Universo, Miss Mundo, Mulher Maravilha; tudo ao mesmo tempo", diz ele.
"Você tinha que ser sofisticada, elegante, inteligente. Os uniformes eram feitos sob medida, de ótima qualidade. Como viajar de avião era muito caro, só algumas pessoas tinham dinheiro e esse mundo todo era especial."

Nos anos 1980, já é possível ver uniformes mais conservadores, como esse da Transavia (1986-1992)

O psicoterapeuta Phillip Hodson vai além. Ele diz que existia no passado uma tendência a se enxergar as aeromoças como símbolos sexuais.
"As aeromoças se debruçam bastante, então sempre estão expondo decotes e traseiros. E é alguém que está servindo, o que sempre desperta fantasias."
Muskiet acredita que todo o glamour do passado sumiu.
"Hoje qualquer um pode voar. Não é preciso ser uma Miss Mundo para virar comissária de bordo, e os uniformes também mudaram. Eles são mais profissionais e chatos."
Muskiet coloca a culpa nas empresas que praticam baixos preços.
"Quando a Easyjet começou a operar, eles vestiam seus funcionários com jeans e camisa polo. A SW Airlines, nos Estados Unidos, usava shorts e camisa polo – eu detesto isso. A Lauda Air tinha uma blusão que parecia uma roupa espacial, combinado com tênis dourado – era bem estranho."
Muskiet fotografa cada um de seus uniformes e coloca a imagem no site. Seus modelos favoritos são todos dos anos 1970, feitos de tecido sintético grosso, padrões psicodélicos, cores vibrantes e saias curtas.
"Foi quando as companhias aéreas perceberam que sensualidade vende [passagens aéreas]." http://www.bbc.co.uk  - Fiona Macdonald


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